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CITY OF ABERDEEN

Aberdeen is a city that stands on the east coast of Scotland . It is world renowned for the oil industry and the spin offs from that association. However there is much more to Aberdeen than the �Black Gold'. The city is modern and vibrant with many good restaurants and tourist sites just waiting to be explored. It is the gem of the east coast.

What about the history of the place?. The city itself is situated between two rivers the River Don and the River Dee. The origin of the name Aberdeen is far from clear, some Gaelic scholars believe it to come from 'Aber' and 'da-aevin' meaning "the mouth of two rivers". Adding weight to this is the Roman name Devana, which could clearly have come from 'da-aevin'. Others say Aberdeen comes from the mouth of the Don, or from the Norse 'Apardion'.

The first known settlers came to Aberdeen back in the Iron and Bronze ages, making the first settlement in the part of Aberdeen called Gilcomstoun, quite a strategic location, which would have had commanding views over the coast line. Although there is no longer any trace of any settlement, the area surrounding Hill Street is where it was located, this is known by artefacts that have been found there in the past.

As the centuries passed Aberdeen continued to grow and being coastal attracted settlers from various foreign origins. Aberdeen became divided and grew into two settlements, one in what is now Old Aberdeen, near St Machar's Cathedral, and another on St Katherine's Hill by the harbour.

The history of Aberdeen is well documented and original documents and manuscripts in the city archives date back to the start of the 12 th century showing some of the dark and troubled times in Aberdeen 's history. Aberdeen boasts one of the oldest and most complete civic records in Scotland . In fact the City Archives are one of the finest in the UK . The City Council has recently published a New History of Aberdeen in two volumes: Aberdeen , 1800 to 2000 and Aberdeen before 1800. These two volumes cover 1,039 pages and have contributions from 38 historians.

In the year 1137 Aberdeen was growing in importance and was to be given a bishop. Aberdeen continued to grow and by 1264 it had built its first castle, this was located in the area now known as the Castle Hill, unfortunately it was demolished along with many other fine period buildings within Aberdeen after the second world war, all that really marks the location is a small hidden away plaque on the wall on Castle Terrace.
Another fine building long since demolished was the palace belonging to Alexander II and used as lodgings by King Robert the Bruce after his coronation in1306, both were frequent visitors to the city, this was located in an area called the Green, where excavations in the past have unearthed many Roman artefacts as well. When it comes to the city archives, the earliest Charter to be found was granted by King William the Lion about 1179 (A document granting the townspeople certain rights) , and from its wording we can assume that Aberdeen was already a Royal Burgh and a trading community of some importance.� King William seems to have paid many visits to Aberdeen and as a mark of favour he allowed the establishment of a Mint within the Burgh.
The early Charters are almost exclusively concerned with trade, the lifeblood of the Burgh. In 1319 however, the Great Charter of Robert the Bruce transformed Aberdeen into a property owning and financially independent community. Bruce had a high regard for the citizens of Aberdeen who had sheltered him in his days of outlawry, helped him win the Battle of Barra. In 1306 the people of Aberdeen helped the future King Robert the Bruce by entering the castle and killing the defenders to the English garrison at the Castle , It was from this event where the town's motto is alleged to have came, Bon Accord, which was the password on the night the castle was taken. The Arms are supported by two leopards � one either side � and above, the scroll with the words �Bon Accord'.

The coat of arms shows a red shield bearing three triple towered castles within the double royal tressure. It is widely accepted that these represent the fortifications which from earliest times stood on the three hills where the city sprang up, namely Castle Hill, the Port or Windmill Hill (now Gallowgate) and St Catherine's Hill (around the present Adelphi ). As soon as his throne was secure he bestowed on the community the ownership of the Burgh itself and the Forest of Stocket for an annual payment of �213/6/8 sterling. The Forest of Stocket formed the major part of the territory known as the Freedom Lands and the revenue from it initiated the Common Good Fund, now worth in the excess of �33 million today.
As a Royal Burgh Aberdeen had a corporate existence, with power to manage its own affairs, subject only to the Leges Burgorum or Burgh Laws which had been enacted by King David I.

The city was burned by Edward III of England in 1336, but was soon rebuilt and extended, and called New Aberdeen. For many centuries the city was subject to attacks by the neighbouring lords, and was strongly fortified, but the gates were all removed by 1770.

In the early days of the Burgh the Chief Magistrate was known as the Alderman, the term �Prepositi' being applied to the Burgh Baillies. About 1460 however, Latin documents refer to Chief Magistrate as �Prepositus' and the term �Provost' came into use shortly after. The �Provosts' Board' at the Town House shows the name of every Provost or Alderman from Richard Cementarius of 1272 to the current Lord Provost John Reynolds.

One of the Provost's duties was to lead the citizens into battle, and this had sad consequences in 1411 when a citizen army, led by Provost Davidson, joined the Lairds of the Garioch at Harlaw to repulse a Highland army under Donald, Lord of the Isles. The slaughter was great and many prominent people fell including Aberdeen 's Provost. His body was borne sadly home and buried within the Church of St Nicholas . The Battle of Harlaw in 1411 was one of the bloodiest battles ever to take place in Scotland .
Two decades in the 1600s were one of the most troubled times in the history of Aberdeen . Scotland was in the grip of the Covenanting Wars and from 1639-52 the city was a battleground for the opposing factions, and a source of revenue for both.� In 1638 Aberdeen was staunchly Royalist, earning the commendation of Charles I in his letter to �trustie and wellbeloved, the provost, baillies and Councell of Aberdeine'. The refusal of most councillors and inhabitants to sign the Covenant despite a visit of Montrose and the Covenanting commissioners increased their favour in the King's eyes and led to the granting of the Great Charter in 1638 reaffirming all the rights and privileges of the Burgh.� During a subsequent visit, the town was put in a state of defence but on the approach of Montrose's army the Magistrates realised that resistance was useless and the Covenant was signed in April 1639.

During the next few years Royalist and Covenanting forces in turn harassed and occupied Aberdeen . The most momentous event of the war for the Burgh was the Battle of the Justice Mills, when the wrath of Montrose descended on the inhabitants.� In 1644, the Marquis, now an ardent Royalist, marched on Aberdeen to demand its surrender. Unfortunately his drummer boy, sent into the town under a flag of truce, was shot on his way back. The enraged Montrose let loose his �wild Irishers' on the town in a three-day orgy of pillage, rape and murder. Few tears would have been shed in Aberdeen when the mutilated arm of Montrose was exhibited at the Justice port after his execution in 1650.

The year 1652 saw the end of Aberdeen's part in the �Troubles' with the restoration of civil government to the Magistrates in a commission granted to the town by Cromwell's commissioners to make sure that a properly acquiescent council was elected � the same tactic as was used by Charles I and James VII.

In 1664 the Council debated the erection of a new market cross, considering the old one unfitting to the dignity of the city. It was not, however, until 1686 that the present cross was erected opposite the Tolbooth by John Montgomery , Aberdeen is the only city in Scotland that houses a monument to the Stewarts, this is depicted on the market cross itself, which is located in the city's Castlegate, close to where Mary Queen of Scots herself resided.

The history of Aberdeen in the next three centuries is largely the story of the group of families whose members vied for the attainment of the Civic Chair. The most brilliant of these was said to be the family of Menzies of Pitfodels, which dominated the scene for more than 200 years. The first Menzies Provost was elected in 1423 and the last in 1635, and for 114 years of that period there was a Menzies in office. Their town residence in the Castlegate was the first stone-built house in Aberdeen and to �Pitfodels Lodging' came Aberdeen's most eminent visitors including King James V, the Marquis of Huntly and Charles II.
King's College was founded in 1495 by Bishop William Elphinstone under a papal Bull from Pope Alexander IV. It was Scotland 's third university and can boast having the earliest endowed Chair of Medicine in Great Britain , being founded by King James IV of Scotland (the university is still a world famous medical teaching centre half a millennium later).
Before any building work could begin, the marshy area had to be cleared and vast oak rafts sunk to secure the building's foundations, then, according to a Latin inscription, work on King's College Chapel began on the 2 April 1500 . It took six years to complete the sandstone chapel, the master mason being either Alexander Gray or John Gray. Within the main part of the Chapel stand the 52 choirs stalls commissioned by William Elphinstone. They were carved locally by Flemish and Scots master-joiners and are regarded as the finest examples of their kind .
Provost Skene's House was built about 1545. It is named after Sir George Skene (1619-1707) who was provost of Aberdeen from 1676 to 1685. The property had fallen into disrepair and the council considered it to be an eye sore and had the intention of raising it to the ground, this was stopped by public petition. Now the building has been fully restored to its former glory it is considered to be one of the most attractive buildings in the city.
Marischal College was founded in 1593 by the 4th Earl Marischal on the site of the Franciscan Friary as the second university in Aberdeen . The new building was built to the plans of William Adam in the mid-18th century, but it was demolished along with the remains of the friary during the rebuilding of the College between 1836 and 1906. Among the few surviving fragments are inscriptions below the stairs. " Thay haif said, Quhat say thay, Lat thame say " was the motto of the Earls Marischal, while the other " APETH A�TARKHS " translates as " Virtue is self-sufficient ". That part of the college, which contains the museum, was built to the designs of the Aberdeen architect Archibald Simpson between 1836 and 1844 and extended as far as the small towers in the quadrangle. Between 1895 and 1906 the building was extended to become the second largest granite building in the world, after the Escorial Palace outside Madrid . Designed by Alexander Marshall Mackenzie, the extensions included heightening the tower to its present 70m, the building of the Mitchell Hall and the Broad Street frontage. The history of the University is recorded in heraldry throughout the building, including the shields above the Broad Street entrance
Aberdeen continued to be an important city and port In the year 1607 a bulwark was built along the South of the estuary so that when the tide went in and out it would scour the harbour and make it deeper. In 1618 a large rock that blocked the harbour was removed and Aberdeen continued to be a busy port.
The Royal Infirmary was built in Woolmanhill in 1741 still standing to the present day. Another, Robert Gordon's College, Robert Gordon a 17th century merchant and philanthropist, was born in Aberdeen he travelled for years working abroad, when he did finally return to Aberdeen he returned, a very wealthy man. However he had never married and had no heirs. Consequently he decided that his fortune would be used to found �a hospital for maintenance, aliment, entertainment and education of young boys' and wrote his will to that effect. He started work on the project in 1730. He died shortly thereafter -- of overeating it is said -- but the project had started, funding was still there, owing to his foresightedness, and work continued on his dream.Construction of the building was completed in 1743.

However before it could be used for its intended purpose, it was taken over by the Duke of Cumberland to use as a barracks for the Hanoverian troops on his visit to Aberdeen in 1746 to put down the Jacobite rising, and so the hospital did not open until 1750. During the nineteenth century the hospital developed in two different directions. The first, aimed at secondary education led directly to the modern private school, Robert Gordon College The second, aimed at tertiary education, developed in combination with external technical institutes such as Gray's School of Science and Art, into an institution which achieved university status in the late twentieth century, the Robert Gordon University .

The Jacobite Risings of 1715 and 1745 caused some excitement. On both occasions James VIII was pro-claimed at the Market Cross and a Jacobite Provost and Council were briefly in control. During the pursuit of the Young Pretender, the Duke of Cumberland spent six days in Aberdeen prior to his engagement at Culloden and was made a Freeman of the city, it is unclear why, because he ransacked and pillaged the likes of Provost Skene's House, which still stands today, before leaving on his journey north. Enthusiasm for the Stuarts waned and the magistrates turned with relief to more practical affairs. In 1750 a new Town Hall was built, elegantly furnished with a marble fireplace from Holland and a set of fine crystal chandeliers and sconces. The latter are still an impressive feature in the Town House.

More mundane matters were not neglected in the city, and in 1497 we find mention of the first �scaffie' when a certain Sande Cowtis was appointed to clean the streets and empty middens for a fee of 2d a year from every house with a chimney

From the year 1200 the town had a population of around 3,000. In a modern sense this may appear to be a small settlement but for that time and age it was considered to be on the large side of the scale. The town consisted of four main streets that converged to form a cross. There was also a market there held at the Denburn. By The 19th century it had expanded considerably, 1901 the population was 153,000 and the city covered more than 6,000 acres, with corresponding growth in every field of Council activity. In the late 18th century the Magistrates had embarked on a scheme of road improvements, and by 1805 George Street , King Street and Union Street were open, the latter a feat of extra-ordinary engineering skill involving the partial levelling of St Catherine's Hill and the building of arches to carry the street over Putachieside. In 1796 Charles Abercrombie - a roads engineer and surveyor - suggested the bold plan of removing the top of St Katherines Hill and build a huge viaduct over the valley.

This ambitious project began in 1801. The resulting 60-foot wide viaduct was one of the engineering feats of its time and was completed in 1805. It was named Union Street after the union between Britain and Ireland . The Denburn Valley was also crossed by a viaduct to Union Street with a single span arch of 130 feet. Along these new streets was built the nucleus of the �Granite City' in buildings designed by John Smith and Archibald Simpson, the shaping of modern Aberdeen had began. It is easy to forget that this street, lined with buildings on both sides, is actually supported on huge granite arches from near the Castlegate to around Crown Street . Only by using the old mediaeval roads on a lower level can you begin to get a concept of the scale. (Look at the arches from Correction Wynd and the green, then view the massive span of Union Bridge over the railway and the culverted Denburn.)

The construction of Union Street was followed by similar viaducts along Union Terrace and Rosemount Viaduct. This opened the whole area to the west and the resulting development probably precipitated the bankruptcy of the city.

Union Street is one of the most imposing and famous thoroughfares in Scotland. From Castle Street it runs for nearly a mile (1.5 km), is 70 ft (21 m) wide, and originally contained the principal shops and most of the public buildings, all of granite. Part of the street crosses the Denburn ravine (utilized for the line of the Great North of Scotland railway) by Union Bridge, a fine granite arch of 132 ft (40 m) span, with portions of the older town still fringing the gorge, 50 feet (15 m) below the level of Union Street

The increasing economic importance of Aberdeen and the development of the shipbuilding and fishing industries brought a need for improved harbour facilities. During this century much of the harbour as it exists today was built including Victoria Dock, the South Breakwater and the extension to the North Pier.� Such an expensive building programme had, of course, repercussions, and in 1817 the city was in a state of bankruptcy. However, a recovery was made in the general prosperity which followed the Napoleonic wars. Considerable social advantages were made during this period. Being a busy trading port, ship building and fishing were the main source of employment at the time, whaling came to an end in Aberdeen . The oil from whales had been used to light lamps but gaslight sounded the death knell for the industry
Improvements in street lighting came in 1824 with the advent of gas, provided by a private company until 1871 when it became the responsibility of the Corporation. An interesting custom dating from this period is the positioning of �two elegant lamps with the city's arms' at the door of a Provost's home during his lifetime. Electric power was introduced in 1892.

A vast improvement was made to the water supply in 1830 when water was pumped from the Dee to a reservoir in Union Place and thence to a number of street wells. This served adequately until 1866 when a large pumping station and reservoir was built at Cairnton on the Dee . An underground sewerage system was begun in 1865 to replace the open sewers which previously ran along certain of the streets.

The cultural side was not neglected since the Public Library Acts were adopted in 1884 and the Art Gallery opened the following year. In the 1830s Aberdeen , like the rest of the country, was affected by a fever for Parliamentary and Burgh Reform. There were processions, public demonstrations and mass meetings, the largest of which took place on Broad Hill in May 1832, attended by 40,000 people. The Burgh Reform Act of 1833 put an end to the self-election of Town Councils and was greeted as a great triumph for democracy. Until 1860 however, membership of the Council was open to Burgesses only.

Since the beginning of the 1900's Aberdeen changed dramatically, with new reforms and legislations being introduced, with the more radical movements and the industrial revolution. Aberdeen became a trading port for every nation.

Owing to the variety and importance of its chief industries Aberdeen is one of the most prosperous cities in Scotland. Very durable grey granite was quarried at Rubislaw quarry for more than 300 years, and blocked and dressed paving "setts", kerb and building stones, and monumental and other ornamental work of granite have long been exported from the district to all parts of the world. Quarrying finally ceased in 1971.

This, though once the predominant industry, was surpassed by the deep-sea fisheries, which derived a great impetus from improved technologies throughout the twentieth century. Lately, however, catches have fallen due to overfishing in previous years by foreign boats in Scottish waters, and the use of the harbour by oil support vessels. Aberdeen remains an important fishing port, but the catch landed there is now eclipsed by the more northerly ports of Peterhead and Fraserburgh..

In addition to fisheries research, Aberdeen is well regarded for the agricultural and soil research that takes place at The Macaulay Institute, which has close links to the city's two universities.

Most of the leading pre-1970s industries date from the 18th century amongst them woollens(1703), linen(1749), and cotton (1779). These gave employment to several thousands of operatives. The paper-making industry is one of the most famous and oldest in the city, paper having been first made in Aberdeen in 1694. The industry has however, all but collapsed. Donside Paper Mill closed in 2001 and the Davidson Mill (run by BPB Paperboard) in 2005. Flax-spinning and jute and combmaking factories also flourished, along with successful foundries and engineering works.

In the days of wooden ships ship-building was a flourishing industry, the town being noted for its fast clippers, many of which established records in the "tea races". The introduction of trawling revived this to some extent, and despite the distance of the city from the iron fields there was a fair yearly output of iron vessels. The last major shipbuilder in Aberdeen, Hall Russells, closed in the late 1980's.

With the discovery of significant oil deposits in the North Sea during the late twentieth century Aberdeen became the centre of Europe's petroleum industry although the benefits do not project this, with the revenues being swallowed up by the treasuery in London. With the port serving many of the oil rigs off-shore, the number of jobs created by the energy industry in and around Aberdeen has been estimated at half a million. In 1988, the city was dealt a heavy blow by the loss-of-life suffered during an explosion and fire aboard one such rig, the Piper Alpha. Aberdeen is now looking to the future, by researching efficient ways to produce energy in the future

Aberdeen is a vibrant modern city, home to a superb university, superb shopping and nightlife, and of course Aberdeen FC, one of Scotland's best Premier league football clubs � Aberdeen is blessed by being surrounded by a hinterland as tourism rich as anywhere on Scotland, featuring the superb Grampian Whisky, Victorian Heritage and Grampian Castle Trails, glorious Royal Deeside, the lovely fishing villages and towns of the North East � and not far away the delightful Moray Coast with superb beaches, wildlife and dolphin watching opportunities. .

Aberdeen has many more historic related sights within its boundaries, which include the Torry Battery, The Battery was built to defend the city and the harbour of Aberdeen. It superseded a number of older structures. The blockhouse, built in the 1490s, was a response to a perceived threat of sea-borne attack by English forces. It was rebuilt several times but remained the primary defence for the city for many centuries. It was not only the medieval battery but also the storehouse for the town's armaments and on occasion acted as a place of execution for pirates. It was also used during world war II as a gun emplacement.

The Gordon Highlanders Museum , history of the local regiment.

The Maritime Museum , centuries of marine related life.

The Marshall Museum , founded in 1786 a fascinating collection of great artefacts from history, many artefacts found in Aberdeen .

Old Aberdeen which includes Kings College , St Machar Cathedral and The Brig of Balgownie, which dates back to the time of Robert the Bruce.

The Toll booth, where prisoners were kept before sentencing.

There is a lot more to Aberdeen than meets the eye, because it has always been considered an industrial city, the historic side tends to be forgotten.

The local dialect is Doric , very different from Lowland Scots or Gaelic. At first hearing it (and the distinctive accent) is utterly impenetrable, even to other Scots. It has its origins in the farming communities nearby and is not as spoken as widely as it used to be. However, there is still a good chance you will encounter the dialect on your travels, so here are a few commonly used words with translations:

  • "Fit like?" - A greeting, essentially, "How are you doing?".
  • "Fit?" - "What?".
  • "Fa?" - "Where?".
  • "Aye" - "Yes".
  • "Na'" - "No" (usually, an n sound followed by a vowel constitutes "no".
  • "Wee" - "Little", though this famous Doric word has become common in other areas worldwide nowadays.
  • "Dinnae ken" - "Don't know".

Some interesting facts which are related to Aberdeen

  • There are over 30 places named Aberdeen throughout the world.
  • Aberdeen Harbour Board, established in 1136, is Britain 's oldest business.
  • In 1808 the entire fishing village of Footdee (Fittie) was moved partly to accommodate harbour expansion and partly because the residents had requested it.
  • Sir David Gill, who took the first photograph of the moon, in 1868, was born in Aberdeen .
  • The Shore Porters Society of Aberdeen was founded in 1498. Still trading today it is the world's oldest documented transport company.
  • Union Street is named to commemorate the Union of Britain and Ireland .
  • More medieval coin hoards have been found in Aberdeen than anywhere else in Britain .
  • The Kirk of St Nicholas houses the largest carillon in Britain , consisting of 48 bells.
  • The Aberdeen Journal, one of the Press and Journal's ancestors, is one of the oldest newspapers in Britain , first printed in 1748.
  • Rubislaw Quarry is one of the largest man-made holes in Europe .
  • Robert Davidson of Aberdeen is recognised for his pioneering work in developing electric motors in the early 19th century.
  • Waterloo Bridge and the Terraces of the Houses of Parliament are built of Aberdeen granite.
  • 640,000 cubic feet of Aberdeen granite went into the construction of the Forth Rail Bridge .
  • In the late 19th century Aberdeen was the British centre for envelope production.
  • The self-seal envelope was developed in Aberdeen .
  • James Gibbs, architect of St Martin-in-the-Fields and St Bartholomew's Hospital,in London , was born in Footdee (Fittie).
  • Charles Cameron from Aberdeen designed many buildings in Leningrad during the reign of Catherine the Great.
  • A pit uncovered in Ship Row, under the modern extension to the Maritime Museum , has been dated to the first century AD.
  • In 1942 the people of Aberdeen raised over �2m to pay for the building of HMS Scylla as part of the war effort. That's the equivalent of �57m today.
  • Torry Point Battery , recently scheduled as an Ancient Monument by the Scottish Ministers, was used as emergency housing for the people of Aberdeen after WWII.
  • The fastest sailing boat ever, the Thermopylae , was built in Aberdeen in 1868.
  • The first stern trawler was built in Aberdeen .
  • Patrick Gordon from Aberdeen was the principal military instructor of Peter the Great of Russia.
  • Robert Henderson designed the first iron lung, in Aberdeen , in 1933.
  • In 1858, Aberdeen , as now, had two universities � the same number as all England .
  • The Rowett Research Institute has produced three Nobel Laureates.
  • The University of Aberdeen 's Research Institute of Irish and Scottish Studies is the first of its kind in the world for graduate study and research on the history, language, literature and culture of Ireland and Scotland .
  • Scientists at the University of Aberdeen developed the world's first underwater holographic camera, which can take three-dimensional pictures.
  • The Robert Gordon University launched the UK 's first degree course in Artificial Intelligence and Robotics.
  • Aberdeen is the second most competitive location to do business in, in the UK .
  • Aberdeen has one of the lowest unemployment rates in the country.
  • The highest concentration of life scientists in Europe is to be found in the Aberdeen area.
  • Sir Winston Churchill, recently voted the Greatest Briton of all time, was granted the Freedom of the City of Aberdeen in 1946.
  • More than half the oil in the North Sea has still to be developed.
  • The Shearwater Platform for Shell was the heaviest industrial structure to have been lifted in the UK . It is now located 180 miles out in the North Sea .
  • Total Fina Elf set a number of records with the development of the Elgin field. It is the deepest field at 17,500 feet below seabed and the hottest at 190 degrees C.
  • Aberdeen has the busiest civilian heliport in the world.
  • Union Bridge in the centre of Aberdeen is the largest single-span granite arch in the world.
  • The Brig o' Balgownie is Scotland 's oldest medieval bridge dating from 1286, although it took over 40 years to complete.
  • Pittodrie Stadium was the first all seater stadium in Scotland .
  • Aberdeen Football Club are celebrating 100 years of existence this year 2006.
  • Denis Law, Scotland 's joint top goal scorer, is an Aberdonian.
  • The Music Hall can claim to be Aberdeen 's first cinema. Just nine months after the first public demonstration of the kinematograph by the Lumieres brothers in Paris , 18 short films were shown on the 28th, 29th and 30th September 1896 , including one that featured hand stencilled colour.
  • Joseph Rank, the founder of the Rank Milling empire, learnt the milling trade in Aberdeen .
  • Scotland 's castle and whisky country has over 52 golf clubs, one for every week of the year.
  • Aberdeen has won the Britain in Bloom contest a record ten times.
  • Planted in 1935, the maze in Hazlehead Park is Scotland 's oldest.
  • Over 100,000 roses grow in the rose mound at Duthie Park .
  • Water polo began around 1863 on the River Dee in Aberdeen , Scotland .

Aberdeen is home to Scotland 's largest permanent funfair.

The Charter given by Robert the Bruce in 1319

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